Battery Bank Sizing Calculator

Sizing a battery bank is one multiplication, one division, and one honest margin — and the margin is the part people skip, which is why so many banks come up short on day three.

Direct answer: Energy = load (W) × hours × autonomy days. Then capacity = energy ÷ voltage ÷ usable depth. 100 W for 8 hours is 800 Wh; at 12V with a 50% lead-acid window that is about 133 Ah (see the full method).

The calculator

Bank size: 133 Ah at 12V

800 Wh rated capacity

The result is rated capacity — what the label must say. The usable energy is the rated figure times the depth setting.

How does the formula work?

Four steps, each a decision rather than an arithmetic detail:

  1. Energy = load × hours. This is the demand side — what the system must deliver between charges. Add autonomy days to cover the worst-case gap.
  2. Amp-hours = energy ÷ voltage. The same 800 Wh is ~67 Ah at 12V, ~33 Ah at 24V, ~17 Ah at 48V — the voltage choice changes the number, not the energy.
  3. Rated capacity = amp-hours ÷ usable depth. Lead-acid's 50% window doubles the arithmetic answer; LFP's 80% adds a quarter.
  4. Round up to real batteries. The calculator's answer lands between catalogue sizes — the nearest group up is the purchase.

Why the margin is the design

The depth-of-discharge margin is where sizing succeeds or fails. Lead-acid survives longest at 50%; LFP allows 80–90% (see the cycle-life numbers). Skip the margin to save money and the bank cycles too deep and ages early — the margin is the difference between the arithmetic answer and the battery that actually lasts.

The autonomy decision

Autonomy days are the sizing question nobody can answer for you: how many days must the bank cover if the sun or the grid is unavailable? One day is the default; two days doubles the bank; off-grid homes often plan three or more — and each day multiplies the rated capacity, which is why the number must be decided before the first component is bought.

Worked examples

ScenarioLoadHoursVoltage / chemistryAutonomyBank
RV house bank100 W8 h12V lead-acid1 day~133 Ah
Off-grid cabin300 W6 h24V LFP2 days~250 Ah
Solar shed50 W12 h12V LFP1 day~94 Ah

When does this calculator mislead?

  • Loads with peaks — motor starts and surges draw more than the average; a bank sized to the average may sag on the peaks.
  • Cold — available capacity falls with temperature (see cold weather).
  • Partial recharging — the model assumes a full recharge each cycle; chronic undercharging ages lead-acid faster than the depth table assumes.

What This Means

My take: Sizing is a margin problem wearing arithmetic's clothes — the formula is two lines, and the failures are almost always the depth-of-discharge or autonomy decision that was skipped to save money, paid back in early replacement.

Why: The arithmetic gives a floor; the margins give the design. A bank built on the usable window, the worst-case gap between charges, and a glance at the load's peaks matches its math in year three as well as day one — which is the actual definition of the right size.

My editorial view, not a purchasing guarantee.

Frequently asked questions

How do I size a battery bank?

Multiply the load in watts by the hours needed, divide by the system voltage, then divide by the usable depth of discharge. 100 W for 8 hours is 800 Wh; at 12V with a 50% lead-acid window that is about 133 Ah.

Should I add extra capacity for cloudy days?

Yes — autonomy days multiply the bank. Each extra day of backup doubles the rated capacity, so decide the worst-case gap between charges before sizing, not after.

Sources

Cross-verified from battery engineering references and off-grid system documentation.

  • Off-grid system documentation — load tables and sizing practice.
  • Battery engineering references — depth of discharge and cycle life.

More tools: runtime calculator · charging time calculator · Last reviewed: 2026-09-17